Freshwater

Species name: Thorichthys meeki
Common names: Firemouth Cichlid
Family: Cichlidae
Order: Perciformes
Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes)
Maximum length: 7″ (18 cm)
Minimum tank size: 55 gallons for a pair
Hardiness: Easy
Aggressiveness: Peaceful. Only shows some aggression when breeding.
Distribution: Central America
Diet: Omnivorous with a preference for meaty foods. Will enjoy most varieties of food. They primarily prefer a diet rich with live food including worms and insects and also plant matter or vegetables.

Firemouth Cichlid Information:

The Thorichthys meeki, or Firemouth cichlid, is one the most popular cichlid in the aquarium trade. The Firemouth cichlid originates from the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico where it can be found in shallow sandy shores along slow-moving rivers where driftwood and rocks are plentiful. The water can range from clear to murky and the Firemouth can thrive even in water that is not moving. The Firemouth can also be found in underground waterways.

The Firemouth Cichlid is average in size. Its maximum size is between six and a half and seven inches in length. This is a tall fish with a laterally compressed body style. The male and female Firemouths Cichlid share similar markings. The male, however, is much brighter and more colorful. The large forehead of the Firemouth is arched toward the eyes. The dorsal fin, which begins at the gill covers, is edged in red. When the male of the breed ages, it’s tail fin will bend and the outer rays will lengthen. Both the dorsal and anal fins on the male Firemouth are exaggerated and pointed compared to the females.

The most obvious feature of the Firemouth is the red tones found on its throat and breast regions. The color of the throat ranges from a bright to brick red and becomes deeper and more noticeable when the fish is under duress. The base of the fire mouth is a blue great color with a subtle tint of purple. The underside ranges from a yellowish green to bright orange. Along the sides of the Fire Mouth are a series of dull dark stripes. A black spot surrounded by yellow is seen behind the eyes and at the start of the tail. More dark spots with yellow rims are on the lower edges of the gill covers and at the base of each translucent pectoral fin. The rays of the other fins on the Firemouth are a light brown speckled with green blue spots. All of the scales of this colorful fish seem to be lined in red.

Firemouth cichlids should be kept in pairs in a tank no smaller than 55 gallons per pair. They prefer an atmosphere lush with plants anchored sturdily on a sandy bottom. Several rocks and driftwood is a must. Tanks intended for breeding should include flat rocks for eggs to be laid on. An open area for your Firemouth to swim freely and present is also highly recommended. The pH level in your Firemouth tank should range between 6.5 and 8.5 and the water can range from soft to very hard with an average temperature between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit.

Feeding a Firemouth is relatively simple as it will enjoy most varieties of food. They primarily prefer a diet rich with live food including worms and insects and also plant matter or vegetables. This is a territorial fish during its mating season and can become aggressive if it feels threatened. The Firemouth is also a very nervous breed of cichlids and if startled will swim recklessly around the tank and potentially injure itself. Avoid sudden movements or loud noises around the tank.

The Firemouth is considered to be one of the most peaceful breeds of cichlids and can get along with a wide variety of other fish in the same tank. The best companions are other similarly sized Central and South American cichlids, large Characins, hemichromis, and tilapia. An average lifespan for the Firemouth can reach up to 15 years, but well cared for this breed can live for much longer.

There is a huge range of Goldfish diseases and Goldfish illnesses such as parasites and infections. These effects are usually increased by overcrowding and not sufficient aquarium care. We will highlight here a few of the diseases particularly relevant to the goldfish. While most can be prevented, it can occur in even the best-kept tanks. The following are common Goldfish diseases and Illnesses and how to resolve or cure them.

16 Common Goldfish Diseases and illnesses

1. Fungus Goldfish Diseases

This is caused by (Achyla and Saprolegnia) and is a common disease to aquarium fishes, but usually only affect fish that are already in a poor condition. The spores that give rise to this infection are quite common in water, and can only get access to the skin of fishes that’s been damaged by rough handling, fighting or attack by other parasites.

When not treated the white/grey cottonwool-like fungal can increase and spread all over the body. This goldfish diseases will eventually kill the fish if not treated with a fungus remedy. Always first try to treat the fish by adding medication to the water. As a last resort in very bad cases, you can dip the fish into a strong solution of the fungal treatment, avoiding dipping the eyes also.

2. Sliminess Of The Skin

This goldfish disease is related to the presence of large numbers of parasites on the fish’s skin and gills. It will irritate the skin of the fish, causing excess mucus production – hence the name of the disease.

Affected fishes will become agitated and rub against the gravel or decorations in their tank. Other symptoms may include spotty red areas on the body, closed fins and increased gill movements. Sliminess of the skin can cause death of the fish or can weaken the fish in such a way that it is acceptable to other disease organisms. It can be treated at the appropriate time with a white-spot remedy or a broad spectrum anti-parasite medication.

3. FIN or Tail Rot

Fin or tail rot is usually the result of a local bacterial infection which can be brought on by a number of factors, including overcrowding, unhygienic tank conditions and if the water temperature condition is too low.

You will recognize these goldfish diseases by the appearance of split and torn fins and may be streaked with blood and/or show reddening at the fin bases. Like all the diseases quick treatment is very important and a number of brands of general fish tonics are effective against Finrot. Both Finrot and fungus infections require immediate attention and is a good indication of unsatisfactory aquarium conditions.

4. Mouth Fungus

Mouth Fungus are Goldfish diseases caused by the bacterium Flexibacter and often occurs with new fishes or those who are kept in unhygienic conditions. Mouth fungus disease can destroy the mouth and that’s why quick treatment is essential and vital. It may respond to a treatment of proprietary remedies from an aquarium shop, but in more difficult cases it is advisable to be treated by adding antibiotics to the water.

5. White-Spot “Ich”(Ichthyophthirius Miltifiliis)

This Goldfish diseases is transmitted by a protozoan parasite and is transferred directly from fish to fish, and therefore it can quickly build up in a well-stocked aquarium. It is very easy to diagnose the disease, as it appears as white dots or spots on the skin, gills, and fins. It typically looks like white sugar grains.

Heavily infected fishes will scrape themselves against rocks and other decorations in the tank. White-spot is usually introduced into aquariums with new fishes, live foods or new plants. We suggest that you quarantine all new fish and plants for two to three weeks with a proper treatment of white spot remedy. A good product range are now freely available on the market and white-spot can be treated very effectively.

6. Hole-In-The-Body (Ulcers)

This is one of the Goldfish diseases that are often caused by a systematic bacterial infection. This spreads through the body of the fish and manifests itself as ulcers, reddened areas on the skin, raised boils and reddening at the fin bases and the vent. Loss of appetite, tiredness and listless behavior is some of the other symptoms.

This Goldfish diseases can be brought on by incorrect care, and recently spawned fish as well as new fish. When they show signs of the disease they should be isolated from other fish. You can treat them by feeding them antibiotic medicated flaked food, or by adding some antibiotics to the water. Once the symptoms decrease and the fish start behaving normal, it can be returned to the aquarium.

7. Leeches

This is a rather uncommon parasite and Goldfish diseases but can be a serious problem if not treated. Not only do they feed on the blood and tissue fluids of a fish, but they can also transmit certain diseases between fish, leaving it acceptable to the secondary invasion of fungus and other bacteria.

Not all leeches are parasites. When you see parasitic leeches on your fish, make sure you take speedy action before the leeches build up in numbers. Because of their powerful suckers, it can’t be easily removed.

You can remove the serious infected fish to a treatment bath containing a three percent solution of cooking salt and water (30gram salt per liter of water / 24 level teaspoons salt per gallon of water). Leave the fish for about ten minutes in the solution. Those leeches which do not fall of the fish can be removed with tongs.

The leeches you removed with the tongs can be killed by throwing in hot water. Some anti-parasite medication may prove effective against leeches.

8. Fish Lice (Argulus Sp.)

Fish lice are another type of large fish disease that aquarists can easily diagnose. These disc shaped crustacean parasite can be found on the skin and fins of the infected fish and is about 0.5cm (0.2inch)in size. The lice can move about on the body of the fish and also away from the host for short periods of time.

With their piercing and sucking mouthparts, they can irritate their host to such extremes, that heavily infested individuals, will often jump out of the water to get rid of the lice. These lice also transmit different microbial diseases, and the wounds left by their mouthparts can get invaded by fungus. It’s quite easy to treat by using broad spectrum anti-parasite medecines.

9. Anchor Worm (Lernaea)

Especially newly acquired fish sometimes have this relative of Argulus (fish lice) found on them. Hanging from the flanks, head area or fin bases of the fish like small tubes 1-2cm (0.4-0.8in) long, it is relatively easy to spot.

Heavy infestation will debilitate the host and signs are a reddened boil-like lesion developing at the point of attachment. The best way of treatment is to remove the parasites with a pair of tweezers. Hold the fish in a damp cloth when doing this. Disinfect the aquarium afterward with a suitable remedy available from your pet shop.

10. Fish Pox Goldfish Diseases

Although this disease mainly affects Koi fish it also seems to be found less frequently in goldfish and other species. A white, light pink and also sometimes a greyish waxy growth on the skin and fins are symptoms of this. The growth tends to appear, develop and then disappear again.

The growth is caused by a viral infection in the cells of the fish’s body. It seems that fish pox is not very infectious and don’t pass between fish. This is about all known so far about this disease and is more unsightly than dangerous to the fish. No reliable treatment is available so far and the fish keeper must learn to accept it for the time being.

11. Dropsy (Pinecone Disease)

This Goldfish diseases is commonly confused with kidney bloat but caused usually by bacteria Pseudonomas or Aeromonas. The bacteria profoundly attack the fish’s kidneys. There is a distinct difference apart from that it also causes swelling of the abdomen and is combined with 100% scale protruding over the body and bulging of the eyes.

12. Kidney Bloat (Mitraspora Cyprini)

Another parasite infection known as Kidney bloat (that’s where the kidneys are swelling and the belly of the fish becomes grossly distended) is infectious and can’t be treaded. Kidney bloat and a tumour are easily confused, because both are showing growths, either on one side or both sides of the fish.

Investigate the scales of the fish to see if 100% of the scales are protruding from the body. If this is the case, it’s most likely not a tumour or kidney bloat but probably Dropsy.

That’s why it’s wise to isolate these fish from the other when you see this kind of symptoms. So long as the fish is feeding and behave normally, keep it in isolation and look for signs of improvement. But if it looks like the fish is suffering you can rather destroy it painlessly.

13. Velvet Disease (Oodinium Or O.Pillularis)

This disease is very similar to Ich in its life cycle. Symptoms is a golden velvety coating usually first seen on the back of the fish. It gradually spreads over the whole body of the fish. This is a very small yellowish parasite not easy to detect. The best medication to use is Acriflavine and obtainable from your fish shop.

14. Swimbladder Disorder Goldfish Illnesses

The infected fish can easily be recognized by the fishes position in the tank. It either floats to the surface or sinks to the bottom of the tank. Hasty changes in temperature are often cited as a cause of the swim bladder disorders. The Fancy goldfish seem mostly prone to the problem, and this may be related to the deformed swimbladder shape of them.

The condition does not appear to be infectious. There is no cure for this. Some relief can be offered to the fish by keeping the fish in shallow water and at a few degrees warmer than the aquarium water. Fish showing Swim bladder disorder should not be used for breeding, and those that are no longer able to feed should be destroyed painlessly.

15. Pop-Eye (Exophthalmia)

It’s pertinent for a condition in which one or both eyes stick out (protrude) from the head of the fish. (You must note that certain fancy varieties of gold fish are purposely bred to have protruding eyes.) The problem is rarely infectious and causes the fish very little discomfort. There is no reliable treatment and along as the fish feed and behave normally, there is no need to take any action.

16. GROWTHS or TUMOURS as Goldfish illnesses

They appear as obvious lumps on the outside of the body or as hard swelling among the internal organs. External tumours can be removed surgically by your veterinarian, but the treatment of an internal growth is basically impossible. This is usually not infectious. Skin tumours are Goldfish ilnesses uncommon and can usually be removed surgically by a veterinarian

Although we give here some explanation of Goldfish diseases and Goldfish illnesses and how to resolve or cure them, we would recommend on getting expert advise from a veterinarian if the problems persist. This should not be necessary if good care is taken in maintain your tanks.

Bettas have aggressive fishes so you must consider the best mate for bettas to life in one similar tank. To keep in 10 gallon tank is not as easy as you imagine because there are a lot of factors you have to notice in choosing Betta tank mates. Through this article, we will help you by giving a reference on 10 gallon betta tank mates which is useful for you who want to add other fishes to live together with your Bettas in a 10-gallon aquarium.

Betta Tank Mates Based on Male and Female

Keeping two or more Bettas in the same tank is not recommended because Betta fish is often to have some violent contacts with one or more other bettas. However, to keep the betta in 10 gallon tank you have to consider the rules. First, it is about two male of bettas living in one similar tank which is supposed as a poor decision. In wildlife, the one losing in the fight will be forced to accept defeat and retreat for safety. Adding a male Betta when there is also another male Betta will make a battle until the other bettas die. Thus, forget your plan to have two male of bettas in one tank.

Keeping two betas in which both of them are female in the same 10 gallon aquarium is the possible option for you. Especially, it can be realized when there is sufficient space giving them ease in moving around and hiding when needed. You can consider it as a good idea to add a female Betta for the existing betta, particularly if for or even more bettas are living in the same 10 gallon aquarium. However, there is another possibility about the aggression from them so you need to safeguard for that.

Female betta usually avoids living with male except mating. However, a male will seriously injure the female or kill them when living in the same aquarium the general suggestion is to abandon such type of group as well as any other Betta community within your tank.

Betta Tank Mates with Different Species of Fish

Many people who like betta fish tend to keep different species of fish within their 10 gallon tank. While having more Betta in the same aquarium will not always be your good idea, there is a big question whether the bettas can coexist with other species in the same tank without any risk of harassment and aggression. Fortunately, it is possible. Here we will show you some species having a high opportunity to live peacefully with bettas in the same tank.

1. Ember Tetras

If you want to keep betta fish with different species, consider Ember Tetras. They are great choice as 10 gallon betta tank mates to keep living with any bettas you have because of their submissive and peaceful nature. They are not familiar to be fin nippers so it is absolutely an extra advantage. Tetras fish suitable for water conditions which are similar and the environment where Betta is living. They also have dull color making them perfect for the cohabitation with some vibrant bettas. They are very fast and tiny, so your Betta doesn’t have any opportunities to catch them.

2. Harlequin Rasboras

The other fish to consider as best 10 gallon betta tank mates to living together with your betta fish is Harlequin Rasboras and Loaches. They can be the perfect mate for your Betta due to many reasons.

3. Snails

Snails are the perfect choice for 10 gallon betta tank mates. This species which can be kept safely in the same aquarium as the mate of your Betta due to their strong shell that protects them against hungry or curious fish. Keeping some snails to live with your Betta has a great option because they can be as algae eaters and excellent scavengers while they take so little space. Ramshorn snails become the special one which is suitable because this snail only grow up to an inch based on the length and they have very attractive patterns. The important point you have to note is that treating your Betta with medicine that contains the caution of copper use should consider that any snails are so sensitive to the use of it.

5. Cherry shrimp

Cherry shrimp brings translucent bodies that mean they will be difficult to be seen by your betta. Although shrimp are commonly used as food type for aggressive fish, they will give a good addition to the tank. Because they take so little space, you will be able to keep five shrimp in 10 gallons. The great advantage of adding shrimp as your Betta tank mates is it brings many benefits to your aquarium.

Flag Cichlid Profile

The Flag Cichlid, or Mesonauta Festivus, comes from the rivers of South America, including the Rio Negro, Orinoco, and Rio Rivers, as well as the Amazon and Paraguay Rivers. In its natural environment, the Flag Cichlid prefers slow moving waters with plenty of vegetation for hiding. In the wild, the diet of the Flag Cichlid consists primarily of weeds, algae, insects, and crustaceans. Its life span is generally between 5 and 8 years. When found in its natural environment, this fish tends to have rather interesting behaviors, such as jumping out of the water when it feels threatened, or resting on its side.

A Flag Cichlid’s body is of an oval shape and is compressed laterally. Perhaps its strongest characteristic is the black stripe running from the mouth to the top of the dorsal fin. The coloring of this fish may be either yellow or brown above the diagonal line and silver/white on the bottom with the fins striped yellow or brown. One variety of Flag Cichlid carries 7 vertical brown bars over the length of the body, while the remaining types have varying colors and patterns. These variations are determined by the locations of where the parent species were first caught. In captivity, the Flag Cichlid may grow as large as 8 inches in size. However, in its natural environment, it generally does not grow larger than 6 inches. Distinguishing between the male and female of the species can be a bit difficult. An adult male may be somewhat bigger than the female, with a slightly more elongated snout and more pronounced pectoral fins. Besides, the dorsal and anal fins may be more pointed than that of the female.

The Flag Cichlid should be kept in a large, tall aquarium of at least 40 gallons with plants reaching to the surface of the water. The tank should have a good filtration system and also good aeration. They prefer to live among plants, rocks, and bogwood and like to swim in the middle layers of the tank. The water should be changed regularly. The temperature of the water should be kept between 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (25 to 34 degrees Celsius), with a pH of 5.5 to 7.2. The water should be maintained at a low to moderate hardness.

The Flag Cichlid is a hardy, social fish that does well with other fish. Though keeping them with small colorful Neon fish should be avoided, as these tend to be a favorite snack of the Flag Cichlid. The Flag Cichlid is an omnivore and eats algae, weeds, and other proteins from the wild. These fish like flake foods, frozen foods, pellets, dried foods and live foods, including worms and crustaceans. It is recommended to occasionally feed them some vegetable foods like oatmeal or spirulina flakes as well. The Flag Cichlid is one the hardiest of all aquarium fish. They can contract parasitic disease but are the last to give into these pathogens, as well as any nutritional and environmental insults. If they do happen to develop a disease, they can be easily treated with a typical aquarium remedy.

Lastly, never forget to keep a cover on the aquarium due to the Flag Cichlid’s unusual habit of jumping when frightened.

Blood Parrot Cichlid Profile

The Parrot Cichlid, also known as the Blood Parrot Cichlid or Red Parrot, is a hybrid species of fish. Given that it is a man-made fish, it is not found in the wild and does not have a given scientific name. However, some refer to this breed as the Cichlasoma Parrot. This fish is a product of crossbreeding between several different Central American Cichlids.

A controversy surrounding the Blood Parrot Cichlid focuses primarily upon the multiple deformities present in the hybrid. These deformities include the spine, mouth, and swim bladder. The deformed mouth, which can cause difficulty in eating, may present a problem when it is placed in an aquarium with other fish, as its peculiarly shaped mouth makes it difficult for the fish to open its mouth as quickly and widely as other fish. For this reason, it may miss out at feeding time if other fishes are around. The malformed swim bladder also causes the fish to swim a bit awkwardly, placing it at a further disadvantage.

The medium breed of Blood Parrot Cichlid generally grows to between six and eight inches. The smaller breed is often only three to five inches in size. Some, however, may grow to be as much as ten inches or more. Its rounded shape and beak-like nose are only part of what sets this unique fish apart from other aquarium fish. The original Parrot Cichlid is a reddish-orange color of varying hues. However, a newer breed that is actually a crossing between a Parrot Cichlid and a Convict Cichlid can be found in a variety of interesting shades including blue, green, yellow, purple, and pink. Often, as the Parrot Cichlid matures, its coloring will lighten or darken, and the solid pattern will generally become somewhat blotchy. Younger Parrot Cichlids tend to be darker than the adults, becoming lighter in color with maturity. The newer colors of this popular aquarium fish have led to the additional nickname of Jellybean fish.

The Ideal Tank For Parrot Cichlid

The Blood Parrot Cichlid should be kept in a fairly large tank that can hold at least 50 gallons (200 liters) with good filtration. The water should be changed at least once a week. Include planted areas for the fish to hide and some rounded stones and sand. The pH should be kept between 6.5 and 7.5 with a temperature of 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit or 24 to 28 degrees Celsius. Lower temperatures may result in a loss of color. Blood Parrot Cichlids are not picky about the varieties of food they are given. Sinking foods such as bloodworms or live brine shrimp are easier for them to eat and seem to be a favorite food of this interesting fish. Because the oddly shaped mouth of the Parrot Cichlid makes surface feeding difficult, pellets or flakes should be pushed below the surface.

Blood Parrot Cichlid Tank Mates

They should not be kept in an aquarium with more aggressive fish, as their deformities make it difficult to compete for food and territory. More peaceful species such as angelfish, tetras, or danios will be perfect as blood parrot cichlid tank mates. Blood Parrot Cichlids will often mate, clear nesting sites, and lay eggs. However, these eggs are often either infertile or are abandoned by the fish after several days. Infertile or abandoned eggs should be removed from the tank as soon as possible as they will develop a fungus.

Clown loach or people may say the Tiger Loach is a tropical freshwater fish that usually become the favorite fish. It has become the lovely freshwater fish in your aquarium. The color becomes the beautiful character of the fish. The combinations of these body colors make this clown loach fish look so cute.

If you like this tiger loach, you can take them to your aquarium. But, before you do, you should know about the right clown loach care. Such as other fish, clown loach need takes good care. You can make them feel happy in the tank if you consider about the place, the food, and the right tank mates. Clown loach has a large size. You can see they grow to 20 cm in the length. They need to have the proper place that will allow them to swim freely and active in the day.

The Clown Loach Care

Clown Loach comes from Malaysia, Kalimantan, Borneo, and the other island rivers. In the wild, they usually make the migration from the big streams to the smaller streams when the season is rainy. The temperature of the water also influences the migration. The rivers that become the proper place for these fish is the river with the thick flora, slow water flow, and also have the good shadow. It can protect them and make them feel comfort. The right food also makes the clown loach love to get the new place. They need to get the place or the river with the thick flora so they can take the food easily.

How about lifespan? In the wildlife, the Tiger loach can live until 20 years old with the maximal size about 40 cm.

After you know about this fish, you can prepare the tank with a similar character like in the river for the best clown loach care. It will make the fish like with the new condition of the water. You can put them in the tank with the thick flora and with the thick shadow. The stream of the aquarium should be calm and make they feel like in the river.

Knowing The Beautiful Appearance

The clown loach is the exotic animal for your aquarium because it has a beautiful color. The yellow color until the red color with the black stripes is the character of this fish. Three vertical stripes decorate the body. Their eyes also have double protection. It will protect them when living in the wild.

The Clown Loach Tank Mates

Talking about the clown loach tank mates, they can live together with the other kind of fish in the same tank such as Kuhli loach, Swordtails, African cichlids, and some tetras. But some of them is not popular because it is not easy to be found in the tank.

The Fish Ability

The clown loach is a freshwater fish with the unique mouth that will help them to dig the bottom of the water to find the food. It may produce the sound when eating. They also have the body without protection on the skin (without skin scales). You need to consider the health. This tiger loach cannot protect themselves from the toxic when the water contains the toxic substances. You also need to clean the water when you see the water need to be changed. Good mates and care for the clown loach tank will give the right place for the fish to grow properly.

Tips For Feeding

The Tiger Loach is carnivore fish. In the tank, you can feed with food from water plants. Feeding the clown loach is not difficult because actually, they are the omnivore. The common way to provide the food for clown loach is using the dry food. The example of the dry food is Hikari, wafers for the catfish, and the other fish food. The other clown loach food that is suitable for the loaches are the blood worm, brine shrimp, tubifex, and many others. Besides, tiger loach needs to get the food for diet. You can feed them the leaves of spinach, cucumber, lettuce or the special tablets. The snails also can be the right food for them with the high nutrition. It can reduce the population of snails.

The Tank Care

You should prepare the tank with the clean water. The water that combined with the drugs will make the fish get sick. The fish in the wild can reach the maximal size for the growth, but in the tank, they will get difficult to grow maximally. They may grow slowly because the place will be different from the river. You can only see the maximum size clown loach fish only 20 cm in length. With the right care, they will live for a long time until 20 years. You can see the fish growth while you see your growth.

You can put the sand on the bottom of the tank, and you also can put pebbles. The Botia macracantha can covers the bottom. The lighting for the tank will help the flora or the plants grow well. Some plants will be proper for the loach fish such as the Microsorum Pteropus, Anubias or the taxyphyllum. The plants of the aquarium will give them enough shadow for the fish. The condition of the river with the right shadow will make the fish feel comfort and life happily.

Besides, you should change the water once a week, and you need to put the best filter for excellent filtration. The temperature that will be proper for the fish is 24 until 30 degree Celsius. The soft flow of water is recommended. The loach fish can live with the other kinds of fishes but do not too much. You can put five species of the different fish in the tank.

Clown Loach Sex Difference

The differences between the female and male fish are difficult to be seen from the appearance. The female fish usually has the round abdomen because there are the eggs. The clown loach with 12 cm for the length is in productive condition.

Betta fish, also known as the Siamese fighting fish (Betta Splendens), is one of the most popular hobbyist fish in the world. Known for their spectacular, fan-like fins and ferocious attitude, the brilliant betta fish began its career in the swamps and rice paddies of Asia.

Since their discovery, bettas has been heavily cultivated and bred for both fighting instinct and color variants. One of the contributing factor to the betta’s popularity is their spawning habits.

In this page, I will share all about bettas and how to take care of a betta fish including the tank, water care, betta tank mates, feeding, and breeding.

The Ideal Tank For Betta Fish

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Betta fish tank – Ideally, any betta fish tank from 1 gallon to any size up is just fine (5 gallons and up would be best). Just because betta fish can survive in a small bowl does not mean they will thrive in such a small tank. Those bowls are just too small. Betta fish enjoy swimming around and develop great “personalities” when they have ample room in which to live. If you want to keep many Bettas in the same tank, it is recommended that you have at least one gallon of water per betta. Remember that Betta fish have a tendency to jump so a lid is a very good idea.

Does a Betta Need a Filter?

Ideally, yes. Using a filter is the way to keep the water from becoming toxic. Betta fish tank without a filter, deadly ammonia levels will build up very quickly. Tiny tanks with no filter require daily water changes to keep Betta healthy. Daily water changes can stress the fish greatly so I strongly recommend a filter. I know, this is not easy to find a filter for a bowl, but I never said it’s a good idea to keep fish in a bowl. If you keep your Betta in a bowl, what you can do is to use a small sponge filter. They are easy to find on Amazon.

Decorations in The Tank

Betta-fish, like any fish, need to have lots of hiding places to feel secure. They will be more active and less prone to stress-related diseases. There are many options available for decorations but make sure all ornament are smooth to the touch with no rough edges. Sharp edges could potentially harm your Betta’s fins, so you don’t want that in your tank.

As they are from marshes and rice paddies, they will love floating plants (live or artificial) and any other aquatic plants. If you chose to go with fake plants, it is better to go with silk plants rather than plastic plants. Silk plants are soft with no sharp edges, while plastic plants can be rough on the fins. The more hiding place, the better.

Temperature Bettas Tank

Does a Betta tank need a heater? – One thing that is often overlooked in Betta fish care is the water temperature. Bettas are tropical fish native to the shallow waters of Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Cambodia, Vietnam and parts of China. They like their water temperature stable and warm (but not too warm). Low temperature is one of the most frequent causes of death for Bettas. The optimal range of water temperature for your Betta fish is 78 -80°F (25-26°C) and should not vary more than a degree or two from night to day. If you do have to alter the temperature, do it gradually over the course of a few hours. The temperature should never drop below 74°F which would have negative impacts on their immune system, making them susceptible to diseases. You can find common betta fish disease and how to prevent here: betta-fish diseases guide.

Since temperature plays such an important role in your Betta’s health, a thermometer and a heater are essential. If your tank (or bowl) is really small, it might be difficult to fit a heater in there. In that case, waterproof heating pads can be used. It can be difficult to heat a small bowl and it is perhaps one of the biggest argument against keeping them in such tiny tanks.

The air temperature at the surface is also important. Bettas are surface breathers, meaning they also breathe from surface air. Low surface air temperature is a common mistake that can be fatal for Bettas. Ideally, the air temperature at the surface should be 78 -80°F (25-26). A lid is a very good idea to keep the air warm.

Compatibility With Other Fish

Betta fish tank mates – Although Betta fish have their territorial side, it is possible to set up a community tank for them where they can live peaceably. When it comes to mix Betta fish with other fish, try to avoid any aggressive and/or fin-nipping fish. Keep in mind that male Bettas are very territorial toward any fish that look like an another male Betta invading their territory. So don’t keep two male Betta in the same tank, avoid fish with long, flowing fins and fish with similar shapes.

What the best tank mates for betta fish?
Betta usually does well with small freshwater fish like platys, swordtails, rasbora, white cloud minnow, plecos, mollies, neon tetras, cardinals tetras, cory catfish and ottos.

For the best betta fish tank, you would have a 10 gallon or larger with a good filter and water heater to have more than just the Betta. Bowl are just too small.

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The tank setup makes a huge difference in whether or not keeping Bettas with another fish is successful. Having plenty of hiding places and room to get away from each other will help a lot.

The ideal aquarium for your Betta fish is what will make the difference between a happy and an unhappy Betta. Unhappy Bettas usually don’t last very long so why not do things the right way. So let’s resume what we’ve learned about the ideal aquarium for Betta fish:

1. Any tank from 1 gallon to any size up is just fine (5 gallons and up would be best). Fishbowl are too small.
2. Using a filter is the way to keep the water from becoming toxic.
3. Decorations such as fake or silk plants make great hiding places. The more hiding place, the better.
4. The optimal range of water temperature for your Betta fish is 78 -80°F (25-26). Warm air temperature at the surface is also important.
5. No more than one male Betta per tank
6. When it comes to mix Betta fish with other fish, avoid any aggressive and/or fin-nipping fish.

Betta Fish Water Change

Changing betta fish water became one of the important things in betta fish care. Just because they originate from stagnant and shallow waters does not mean Bettas can live in poor quality water. Just like it is for any aquarium, regular water changes are the best and easiest way to keep the water quality high and your Betta healthy.

How much water should be changed?

The amount of water that has to be changed depends on many factors: tank size, the amount of fish, live plants, filter or no filter, etc.

A 1 to 5-gallon tank with a filter is what requires the less maintenance. If there are live plants, it will need even less maintenance. In some heavy planted tank with a low fish population, I often manage only to change the water once a year. As a rule of thumb, weekly 10% water change should too. Buying an NO3 test kit and testing the water once a week will tell you lot about how often the water needs to be changed.

If no filter on your tank, expect to change the water a little more often. 10% water change twice a week should too. For a tank smaller than 1 gallon, water changes have to be done regularly to keep your Betta healthy. If no filter on the tank, a complete water change might be needed every two days!

Keep in mind that complete water changes are a big source of stress are not ideal for any fish. With a filter, bi-weekly 50% water changes should do. Here again, an NO3 test kit will tell you lot about how often the water needs. Don’t waste your time and money testing the water in such small tanks with no filter. If this sounds like a bit too much work, a larger tank may be a better option for you.

How should you change the water in your betta fish tank?

• Always pre-fill a separate container of water at least 24-hours before changing the water so that chlorine has time to dissipate completely. Add a water conditioner to the new water.
• Raise the temperature of the water to match the temperature in the tank or bowl. Put a heater in the tank if need. Temperature fluctuations are very stressful for Bettas. New water MUST be at the right temperature before to procede to the water change.
• If you intend to change all the water, you must first remove the Betta from the tank and place it in a special cleaning cup with cover. If you only change a part of the water, you may leave you Betta in the tank. If you fear that cleaning can be too much stress for your Betta, you can always remove it.When removing a Betta from its tank, avoid using the fish net (it’s stressful and unnecessary). The best way to do this is to dip a small cup into the water when your Betta is near the surface. This will suck both the Betta and water from the tank into the cup. Don’t forget to put a lid on the cup!
• Vacuum the gravel to remove all leftover food particles. Remove all decoration, and vacuum underneath them as well. If there are live plants in the tank, leave them there and vacuum around. NEVER use soap or other cleansers to clean anything that comes in contact with your betta!The filter (if any) must be cleaned as well. Simply rinse the sponge. Whatever they told you at the store, you don’t need to replace the sponges. If your filter is large enough to fit more than one sponge of other filtration media, only rince one per water change.
• Once the tank is clean, pour your Betta back into the tank.

Feeding Betta Fish

Knowing what to feed and how to feed Bettas will have a profound effect on its health and longevity. Next to the quality of the water, the food is the second most important factor in caring for Bettas. They aren’t particularly fussy about food but if you are new to Betta fish care, feeding them might present a challenge at first.

How much to feed?

Only feed what your Betta can eat. If your Betta doesn’t eat all the food you gave, SYPHON ANY LEFTOVER so it won’t rot and pollute your Betta’s water. Remember to give less next time. As a rule of thumb, feed only what your Betta will consume right away (in 2 minutes).

When feeding your bettas, be aware that if they really like their food. Bettas might not stop eating until all has been gobbled up. Overfeeding Bettas can lead to GI blockage, swim bladder disease, constipation or death. Keep in mind that a betta’s stomach is only as big as his eyeball.

How often to feed Bettas?

Once a day for adult Bettas and twice a day for the fries is good. What’s even better is to feed smaller portions twice a day.

What to do if you can’t feed them for a few days?

Bettas can survive without food for a long time so don’t worry if you are leaving on a weekend trip. It won’t starve or anything. That doesn’t mean that regular feeding isn’t important but once in a while won’t be a problem.

Best Food to Feed Betta Fish

Betta fish are carnivorous top-feeder. Their food must be easily digestible and high in protein. Ideally, offer your betta several types of foods to insure a well-balanced diet. Variety will contribute to a strong immune system. Many kinds of food will do well. Rather than listing them all here, let’s have a look at what they like the best:

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• Bettas love frozen food such as brine shrimp, mysid shrimp and blood worm. Of all the frozen food available, blood worm is by far what my Bettas like the best. Bloodworm is the best food for betta fish also part of the Betta’s natural diet. It’s very nutritious and easily digestible. You can get this food frozen from your local fish store so don’t waste your time trying to find bloodworm or mosquito larva around your house. Unfreeze small portion and feed them to your bettas.
• Betta bites and Betta pellets are specially designed for Bettas and can be a good alternative to frozen food. Some Betta that has been fed frozen food for a long time might not eat pellets. You can buy Aqueon betta food if you will feed your betta with pellets.

Breeding Betta Fish

Betta fish are not the easiest fish to breed. Some other species are much easier to breed than the betta (Guppies, for example, seem just to multiply in your fish tank overnight), but their courtship, spawning, and nesting activities are fascinating to watch. The more experience you get at breeding your Betta the easier and less complicated it will be.

Choosing The Right Couple

Betta fish male and female should be between 5 and 18 months old and in good health before you attempt to breed. Chose a male and female of roughly the same size and remember to choose them in the color you wish to breed for. Another important thing when selecting a breeding pair is to look at their level of activity. You want them to be active!

The Breeding Tank

Material needed:
10-gallon tank, hood with lights, plants (fake or real), submersible heater, aquarium salt, dechlorinator, sponge filter (or any small internal filter), thermometer, tank divider, styrofoam cup cut in half (lengthwise).

Required food:
live baby brine shrimp, vinegar eels/microworms.

Tank setup:

1. Fill half the tank with cycled water. Place the filter in the right corner (don’t turn it on right now). The filter will be used later to slowly circulate the water and keep fry off the bottom.
2. Place the plants in the aquarium.
3. Place the heater and set to 80F (26.6C).
4. Place the thermometer in the tank.
5. Tape the styrofoam cup in the left corner (right at the surface of the water).
6. The styrofoam cup will be used to protect the male’s bubble nest. Put the hood on and turn on the light.
7. The lights will be left on 24/24 until the fry are 2 weeks old.
8. Put the tank divider right in the middle of the tank.

There are a few specifics that need to be in place before you get the happy couple together for the big event. A 10-gallon aquarium is an ideal size for a breeding tank, providing enough room for the female to escape the male’s insistent aggression while still keeping them in relatively close proximity. The tank should have a tight fitting cover to prevent cool drafts over the fry at the critical time when they’re developing their labyrinth organs. Plants act as cover for the female to take breaks during the active courtship. Gravel makes it hard for the male to spot the eggs as they fall after the spawning embrace, so it’s better to have a bare tank bottom. A plastic or Styrofoam cup cut in half and taped to the side of the tank provides an excellent, stable and protected area where the male can build his nest.

Water conditions are crucial to the health of your fish, whether they’re breeding or not. The water should be properly cycled, with the correct chemistry, pH, and bacterial filter before you start breeding bettas. For spawning bettas, the water temperature should be at 80-82F. A heater is highly recommended to maintain a consistent temperature since fluctuating temps can interfere with the adult bettas health and cause the death of the fry.

Get Bettas Couple Ready

To get your chosen couple ready for the big day, they should be conditioned with plenty of nutritious foods, given in frequent, small amounts. Feed them four times a day and feed as much protein as possible, preferably frozen or live bait such as bloodworms. It also helps to have the two in the same tank, but separated by a clear partition, since visual contact will stimulate the male to build his nest and the female to create eggs. The separation keeps the male interested and keeps the female protected from his violent amorous advances. During that period, the male will be busy building a nest made out of bubbles where the eggs will be incubated and hatch into fry.

Breeding Time

When the bubble nest is ready and the female is well-rounded and often has vertical barred markings, it is time to remove the division so they can be introduced. The male entice the female with sometimes brutally aggressive courtship to join him under the nest. The female may hide from the male at first but, most likely they will swim toward one another pretty soon. The courting behavior is a spectacular display on the part of the male, and even the female can become intensely colored and flashy.

The male spreads his fins, flares out his gill covers, and dances in an “S” pattern. The male can get so rough that he can cause damage to the female, torn fins and scales, but when the female is ready to spawn, their courtship gentles considerably. The female meets the male under the nest for the intricate dance of spawning. The two often dance in further courtship before the male wrap the female in an embrace, squeezing out her eggs while he fertilizes them. The spawning process can last many hours and they will continue this cycle until the female has released all her eggs. Remember that you should be offering good food to the Bettas throughout the spawning process.

After the female expels the eggs, both fish may stop moving (that is normal). Once they start moving again the male gathers the eggs, blowing each one up into the bubble nest for protection and incubation. Most females help with this process. Once the eggs have all been released and gathered the female can be removed from the tank. The male will continue to care for the nest and eggs until they hatch after (24-36 hours) and become free swimming (after 48-72 hours).

Hatching

The eggs hatch 24 to 36 hours after spawning, depending on the water temperature. Once the fry are all free and swimming (after 48-72 hours) the male must be removed, or he may start to devour them. Do not attempt to spawn the male and female for a few weeks, and take good care of them for a week (like you would be conditioning them).

Fry ‘Em Up

So you’ve put your male and female Betta fish together. They’ve done their wild and crazy courtship, producing a boatload of eggs, which the happy couple carefully placed in the bubble nest. You’ve managed to remove the female without damaging anything, and the male has brooded over the eggs. After 24-36 hours, you’ve got teeny tiny wigglers in there, dropping out of the nest like little bombs. Your male is working his long-finned tail off, scooping the fry up and blowing them back into the bubble nest. Now, what do you do?

Day old betta fry hanging from bubble nest

At least for the next thirty-six hours, is that you don’t need to do anything, except possibly feed the male betta if he eats. Male betta got quite the job, rescuing the little fry as they constantly fall out of the nest. He might not want to take time out for a meal, or perhaps you can do a little tank cleaning. The fry are still absorbing what’s left of the yolk material, so they don’t need to be fed while they’re hanging tail down from the nest. When they’ve depleted the yolk sac and start swimming horizontal (after 48) hours), then it’s time to feed. It’s also time to remove the male before he views the tiny swimmers as food.

Feeding the Fry

The fry are very small and need an abundance of micro-food. Ideally, the fry should have a continual source of food. So to properly feed them, aim for 5 to 6 feedings per day. At that stage, microworms or vinegar eels are the best food for bettas fry. When feeding with microworms, simply scrape up enough worm to fit the tip of a toothpick and drop the worms in the water. When feeding vinegar eels, suction up a small amount of rinsed vinegar eels with an eye dropper and drop the eel in the tank. In my opinion, it is much easier to work with microworms than vinegar eels. An alternative food for fry is to strain cooked egg yolk to make a fine particle make a fine particle infusion. It works but it is messy and it can make the water dirty which could kill the fry.

After about a week, it is time to turn the filter on. The filter must be really slow and to do this, you can tie an knot in the air line. It is also time to add baby brine shrimp to the feeding routine and alternate foods throught the day. Feed the fry often (3-4 times a day) but make sure to not mess the water. The best is to start off with small amount and add more if needed.

After two weeks, increase the flow of the filter by loosing up the knot in the airline. It is also time for a first cleaning. Vacuum the bottom and replace 10-20% of the water with new water. New water must be at the exact same temperature, pH, everything!!! Before to dump the old water, look for fry that could have been sucked up while cleaning. If any, put them back in the breeding tank. The water quality must stay as high as possible so you will have to clean the tank every day or two.

About a month after hatching stage, you can stop feeding the fry with microworm or vinegar eel and start feeding them with finely crushed dry foods. Start by giving dry foods a try. If they don’t eat it, wait a couple of days before to stop feeding with live food.

They Will Grow

During the critical first few weeks, the betta fry shouldn’t be moved, since that might damage their sensitive labyrinth organ. They don’t start to show much color or fin shape until they are about three months old. As they mature and gain color, watch for aggressive behavior. Move those that are aggressive into jars. Only house one per jar and keep the temperature as close to 80F as possible (they grow faster when it’s warm). The jars should be cleaned every 2-3 days. The females get along fairly well, so they can be moved all in the same tank as they grow. To sex them, female has shorter bodies and fins, and often, round bellies and more square anal fins. Males have more pointed and longer anal fins.

At 1.5- 2 months, it is time to lower the temperature to normal (do this gradually). Dry food should be their only diet now.

Beautiful Bettas

One question you might be asking yourself is, “Why?” Why are you putting yourself through all this trouble and work? Some people actually breed bettas for commercial gain, but many hobbyists breed their bettas for the educational experience, or just because they love their beautiful bettas and want more. Some fanciers breed their bettas for show, fine-tuning their betta strains for the most beautiful or most unique specimens. For whatever reason you began this experience, breeding bettas and raising the fry is bound to be interesting, educational, and fun.

On the previous post, we have the most common goldfish. So, on this fish profile page, we will take a closer look at the Shubunkin Goldfish. This page will cover all you need to know about keeping the Red Brocade Goldfish.

The Shubunkin (red brocade), also known as the “Poor Mans Koi” or “Chu-wen-chin” in China is a type of single-tailed goldfish with calico colors which is a combination of orange, white, black, red, and blue markings. They have been developed from mutations in telescope eye goldfish (Demekins) back in 1900 in Japan.

They are good swimmers, relatively hardy and adaptable, so shubunkin goldfish is excellent for a novice fishkeeper.

They are a lot like the common and comet goldfish in appearance but distinguishes themselves by having orange, brown, red, and yellow colors combined with black spots. The colors usually extend to the finnage. This color pattern is what’s also called calico colors. Calico means there are at less three colors present.

The ideal shubunkins should have lots of blue with patches or yellow, gray, black, brown, red and orange. The more blue color it has, the more valuable it is.

A few variants of the shubunkins goldfish can be found:

1. London shubunkins – is short (about 6 inches in length) and have a really short tail, usually around 25% of the body length.
2. American shubunkins – are slimmer than the London Shubunkin and have a pointed and deeply forked tail with a longer finnage. Ideally, the tail should be at least as long as the body of the fish.
3. Bristol shubunkins – are slim with a very large moderately forked tail and well-developed finnage. The tail is also rounded at the end and look like the letter B.

All three variants have the calico colors, but each has a different tail configuration.

The Shubunkin goldfish is a coldwater fish so the tank does not have to be heated. It will do well with a water temperature of 65° – 78°F, a pH between 6.0 and 8.0 and a dH of 5 -19.

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Do you any experience in keeping Shubunkin Goldfish in your tank? Share it with us in the comments sections below.

In the wild, Goldfish (Carassius Auratus) are really different from what we are used to seeing in aquarium and ponds. During the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907), it was popular to keep carp fish in ponds. Some of these carp fish displayed yellowish orange color rather than silver coloration. So they began to breed the yellowish orange variety instead of the silver variety and created what we call today the Common Goldfish. Today, many varieties of fancy goldfish are derived from the common goldfish. They have been breeding to look different in color, shape, and size.

Common Goldfish

The Common Goldfish is a coldwater fish so the tank does not have to be heated. It will do well with a water temperature of 65° – 78°F, a pH between 6.0 and 8.0 and a dH of 5 -19.

Compatibility:

Most Common Goldfish is a coldwater fish. This is actually one of the reasons why it is not recommended to keep the common goldfish with tropical fish that require warmer water.

When buying new tank mate, remember that any fish that can fit into a goldfish’s mouth will get eaten. Finally, it is not recommended to keep narrow-bodied (common goldfish, comet and shubunkin) and fat-bodied goldfish (most fancy goldfish) varieties together because the narrow-bodied ones will have eaten all the food before the fat-bodied realise it’s time to eat.

Compatible plants:

It is not easy to find plants that are suitable for a goldfish tank. Most commonly available plants will not thrive in goldfish tank conditions because they are tropical plants. Most aquarium plants also require more light that what is provided with the basic aquarium kit. Some of the plants I have found to be suitable for most (not any) goldfish tanks are the floating plants ( Ceratophyllum submersum, Ceratopteris thalictroides, Limnobium laevigatum, Duck weed and others), Java ferns, anubias, echinodorus and other low light plants. Read here for more information about low light aquarium plants.

Different Types Of Goldfish

Below some of the most different types of goldfish available today.

Single Tailed Goldfish

Single tailed have a longer body shape than other fancies and, as the name suggests it has a single tail. They grow to a size of almost 12 inches (30 cm) and are active swimmers, which makes them most suitable for ponds.

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  Common Goldfish – is one of the most popular fish in the aquarium hobby. It is also one of the easiest fish to keep which makes it an excellent choice for beginners. The Common goldfish possess a long dorsal fin with a forked caudal and a short caudal peduncle. The body is tapered at the caudal peduncle and head, and it is also wider and deeper than the comet goldfish. They come in many colors but are mostly seen in solid gold/orange. In the wild, they feed on a wide range of food including plants, small crustaceans, insects, and detritus. In captivity, they will accept most aquarium food including pellets, flakes, and live prey such as worms.

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  Comet Goldfish – are native to China and Japan. The Comet goldfish have originated from the United States and has been developed from common goldfish in the early 1880s. The Comet Goldfish is a hardy and adaptable fish that do not require too much care. They are a lot like the common goldfish in appearance but the fins are longer. The tail is deeply forked and can be almost as long as the body. The tips of the tail can be clear, which makes the Comet goldfish a really attractive specimen. They come in a variety of colors including yellow, silver, as well as a combination of the two colors. Today, a few variants of the Comet goldfish can be found: Sarasa comets are characterized by their red-and-white coloration and resemble the Kohaku color pattern in koi. The Tancho single-tail is similar to the comet but it has a silver-colored body and finnage with a red patch on the head.

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  Shubunkin Goldfish – Shubunkin (meaning “red brocade”), also known as the “Poor Mans Koi” or Chu-wen-chin in China is a type of single-tailed goldfish with calico colors: a combination of orange, white, black, red, and blue markings. The Shubunkin goldfish have been developed from mutations in telescope eye goldfish (Demekins) back in 1900 in Japan. They are good swimmers, relatively hardy and adaptable, so they are an excellent for a novice fishkeeper. They are a lot like the common and comet goldfish in appearance but distinguishes themselves by having orange, brown, red, and yellow colors combined with black spots. The colors normally extend to the finnage. This color pattern is what’s also called calico colors. Calico means there are at less three colors present.
  The ideal shubunkins should have lots of blue with patches or yellow, gray, black, brown, red and orange. The more blue color it has, the more valuable it is.

Double Tailed Goldfish

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  Wakin goldfish – Wakin goldfish “Japanese goldfish” are a nice mix of standard goldfish and fantal goldfish and are the ideal fish to be placed with koi. They have a slender body, similar to a Comet goldfish and a fantal shaped tail with shorter fins. Wakin typically comes in red and white. Every Wakin will display unique color pattern. They can be completely red or white just a few red stains. They are fairly difficult to breed and are not readily available. Originally discovered in China, the wakin goldfish is thought to be the first type of goldfish brought into Japan. The wakin goldfish is better suited for ponds.

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  Jikin goldfish – The Jikin is a charming, colorful goldfish that the most beautiful fish for the freshwater aquarium. The jikin goldfish is the rarest, and this stunning creature is extremely sought after by aquarists everywhere. Also known as the peacock-tail goldfish, its most outstanding feature is its caudal fin (tail), which has four lobes and which, when the fish is viewed from behind. It has a short, slim, slightly oval-shaped body, similar to that of the common goldfish, and an indented dorsal fin. The body of the Jikin goldfish is a dazzling white color and its lips, gill covers and fins, including its spectacular caudal fin, are bright red. An aquarium with a minimum capacity volume of 50 gallons is needed to house the jikin goldfish as adult specimens will grow to 9 inches (25 centimeters) in length. It is a hardy fish but is less cold-tolerant than many other species of goldfish and prefers water with a constant temperature of 25°C (degrees Celsius), and a pH value between 6.5 and 8.5.

Double Tailed with No Dorsal Fin Goldfish

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  Bubble eye goldfish – also known as the Water-Bubble Eye Goldfish. It is a member of the carp family and originates from Asia and China. The Bubble-Eye can easily be recognized by its upturned eyes and the fluid sacs beneath them. It has an egg-shaped body and a double tail, but no dorsal fin. The Bubble-Eye can grow to around 15cm/6inches in length and can be found in a variety of different colors, including gold, red, chocolate, red/white and even black. It is relatively easy to sex the Bubble-Eye, as during the breeding season the males develop tiny raised white spots (known as tubercles) on their heads, gill covers, and pectoral fins. The females will become fatter when they are carrying eggs. As Bubble-Eyes are slow swimmers and have poor eyesight, they are best kept on their own and are not really suitable for beginners.

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  Ranchu goldfish – Variety of goldfish exclusively bred in china in the 1800s. They are excellent fish to keep in a pond. They require the same conditions as the common goldfish. Their lifespan is about 8-10 years. The ranchu goldfish has a body similar to the Chinese lionhead. Its body is egg-shaped and it lacks the dorsal fin. Its head growth is also almost similar to the lionhead goldfish. The tail of the Ranchu is bent a little more to face the bottom than that of the lion-head. Good specimens have a short fan-tail. The length of the head and the body should be proportional. The Ranchu goldfish have a few color mutations. There is the standard red, the black and the white and red, to name a few color forms. The head growth or the cap develops over a year or so, provided the environmental conditions are qualitative. The Ranchu gold grows up to 7 inches, and they need a lot of space to swim in the aquarium. They are not as hardy as the common goldfish. So when given the proper surviving conditions, they live for a long time in the aquarium. When kept in outdoor ponds, the temperature should be monitored constantly and they should be moved indoors at temperatures less than 18 degree Celsius.

Double Tailed with Dorsal Fin Goldfish

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  Ryukin goldfish – Strikingly similar to the fan-tail but its most distinctive feature, a large hump just behind the head which develops as the fish matures, makes the ryukin easily identifiable. It has an unusually deep (almost as deep as it is long), egg-shaped body and a high dorsal fin which gives the fish a somewhat elevated appearance. The ryukin has a wide tail which typically has two lobes but fish with three or four lobed tails are not uncommon. They are normally red, white or a combination of the two in color. Nevertheless, there is a calico variant of the species which has a blue base color, a mixture of speckled pigments and the occasional metallic scale on its flanks. Ryukin goldfish become sexually mature when they measure 4 inches/10 centimeters in length.

Other popular types of goldfish available:

Double Tailed with Dorsal Fin Goldfish

• Fantail goldfish
• Oranda goldfish
• Pearlscale goldfish
• Moor goldfish
• Telescope-eye goldfish
• Pom-pon goldfish
• Veiltail goldfish

Double Tailed with No Dorsal Fin Goldfish

• Lionhead goldfish
• Celestial goldfish

Goldfish Gallery